Thursday, 27 November 2008
I found that...I have added a little bit perference of myself into the outfits
and this one, the colors still in the color family, but i have tried to add some special effects on them, as SR often use some floral pattern or metallic material in the collections.
And I will use them to put on the outfits I designed, as a check point of the project.
My own conclusion of SR
My group have studied and analyzed the fashion brand of Sonia Rykiel from different aspects. We find that, at the beginning, the brand tended to be using achromatic, shades and few main hues. It was because of the war, poor and unstable environment.
Yet, as the brand became more and more popular, and the worldwide economy and political environment became better and free to women, SR tried to use more colors on the collections, representing new women. Purple, beige, navy blue, blue violet, pink, light yellow and brown, those colors (we thinks that she likes) could be seen more often in the collections.
(Seen in the picture of “Most frequency using color of SR”)
However, she still tended to use the hues in low chroma and achromatic as the main colors of the collections.
We analyzed SR’s collection from 02FW to 09SS, in the first few years’ collection, brown, navy blue, low chromatic purple, yellow, red and green could found quite often in FW. Although SS contains more high chromatic hues, they still used in a low proportion.
However, from 02 to 08, there is an evolutional increase of using high chromatic color scheme. The more recent collection, the more high chromatic hues have been used.
In 08FW and 09SS, the brand has come into its 40th anniversary.
In the 2 collections, the number of color used is more than any collection before; I described it as a color boom.
Also, I found that some other fashion designers designed some outfits as a present. -------------------Out came 30 more models in Sonia Rykiel looks designed by some of fashion's biggest names. Martin Margiela made a fur chubby the color of Rykiel's flame-red mane. Rodarte's sweater dress read "Obama." Jean Paul Gaultier's came attached to giant knitting needles and trailing a ball of yarn.(style.com)
So, I don’t think those outfits should be included in SR’s fashion design timeline during analysis.
I understand that her daughter had joined in the brand and tried hard to increase the number of high chromatic hues used and total number of colors in collections. Yet I do want to consider the 2 collections as an exception. Everyone want to be more beautiful during her birthday, isn’t it? But it does not mean that you will keep on wear like this afterwards!
To be concluded, it is the truth that SR’s collections become more and more colorful, more color in high chroma are used due to her daughter’s influence, but in the 2008FW and 2009SS collections, the 40th anniversary brings the brand to a sudden color boom, which I think would not be kept. In the next part of future forecast of SR’s color scheme, I will discuss more in detail.
My future forecast of SR 2010 SS collection’s color scheme
First of all, I would like to explain why I have chosen 2010 SS for the future forecast but not 2009FW. (Although Robert, you said that it does not matter to choose either FW or SS…) It is because I have done the color research of SR’s SS collections, I am more familiar with SR’s SS collections, both of its color schemes and tendencies. And I see that, compared with FW, SS have more color combination used; I think it would be more challenging and interesting.
As I mentioned, the 40th anniversary of SR, has brought the brand a sudden color boom in 08FW and 09SS collections. 40 is a special number, both for the brand and Sonia herself, and also for me.
Logically, in the next few seasons, SR will not keep on celebrate its 41, 42, 43 anniversaries.
As a result, I would predict SR’s 2010 SS collection’s having less number of colors than 09SS’s, and it would still try on using more high chromatic colors.
In the collection, the colors that appear many years still could be found, black and white achromatic, light purples, brown, yellows, and blue. Those colors still used quite frequently, but in the whole collection, I think their proportion might be decreased.
Beige, red, light pink, orange and navy blue, these colors are not used too much before but still we can see them quite often, and I think they would appear in the collection.
And I would like to make a guess on a hue that not much used before, green, would be used in the collection, like the tendency of SR, new main colors, such as orange of 08 SS, blue green of 04 SS, may be used in 5-10 out of ~60 outfits. And I think the green hue would be in high chroma, as we mentioned, SR’s daughter and new designer make SR become a more colorful brand with more high chromatic colors.
Wednesday, 26 November 2008
This information, and the main hue's post's, they show something quite important in fact.
That's -----09 SS, is a very different collection compared with those before.
It contains lots of colors more than any collection before, no main few colors, no strange one outfit color.
It just like a color boom.
These 10 colors are the most frequency using by Sonia in design between 2002-2009
These colors includes achromatic, chromatic and also in both high value high value and low value and low intensity
But the hue is repeated, the intensity and value are different in different
The nearer year, higher value and intensity is used
After the research of the usage of color by the designer, We have analysis the color they have use, so we can have a further prediction.
We have base on the 9 theories.
Double complimentary ,
Split complementary and
Triadic Color Scheme
The Charts are shown on before......
We also mention the common practice of the designer that she always match between chromatic and little monochromatic color.
The research base is from The style.com picture in Sonia Rykiel every year fashion show photographs.
We have separate F/W and S/S for each year and so the comparison can be made
First for F/W, We can see the charts, Most frequency color present here is Achromatic
Obviously, The designer like to use achromatic scheme on her design
Black is the most often Hue
The pattern of Sonia using achromatic/monochromatic scheme is similar for many years...
the chart shows that....very similar pattern from 2003 to 2006
However, we can see in this year2008 F/W collection,
And the pie of achromatic one is smaller and small
more small pies exists in this year
It implies more scheme is used in this year
Because of Sonia Rykiel's daughter entry?
Younger image is given
Of course.........↑ new color schemes use=↑ new design
Similarly, 2nd is the monochromatic scheme
hue of orange, Blue and yellow shown in monochromatic way
in high value high intensity dominant instead
Sonia sign....Sonia rainbow....always suddenly exist among the aromatic design collection
IT IS NOT STRANGE
because this phenomenon can be found from many year
if it is a common practice
it can also be said to quite consistency
no matter chromatic or achromatic
on outfit always one hue dominant.
That's mean this designer focus on the theory of the proportion of color usage
So different color combination like split complimentary, Double Complimentary Color scheme is rare to see
In these 2 years, more color theories are applied on design.
In last year F/W collection, many color scheme haven't used by Sonia rykiel before suddenly present
Such as Complimentary scheme and analogic color scheme
Comparing FW collections' color scheme
Comparing the summaries of the main colors used in the F/W, we can see that more colors were used since F/W 06,
and the color scheme has slightly changed from achromatic to analogous color scheme, but the monochromatic color scheme was still dominated in the collections.
This may because Sonia Rykiel's daughter has become more important in the brand, and she has put much effort in giving new energy to the brand in these few seasons.
She want to keep the brand in the stage of high fashion while adding different element of young energy, such as high chroma and high intensity colors,
to refresh the customers' minds and attract a new target group, i.e. young ladies just graduate or go to work for few years.
Comparing SS collections' color scheme
In the past, Sonia used similar color schemes, such as monochromatic and achromatic color schemes with low chroma and low intensity colors.
However, in the collections of S/S 08 and S/S 09 , high chroma and high intensity colors are used, such as primary yellow and shocking pink.
This may shows that Sonia Rykiel is going to use more colors with high chroma and intensity in the S/S collections.
There are lots of colors in S/S 09, however, they are just similar with the colors used in S/S 08. A series of pastel color of pale pink and pale violet are developed from the previous season.
Most of the colors are the aggressive colors and compare with the previous seasons, more colors are used with the similar tone. This can create unity for the collection and the brand.
--------------this is some of my group's research conclusion, as i have done SS's study, i just tried to add some information about FW and whole conclusion.
and...thank you very much to all of my lovely teammates!!
Thursday, 20 November 2008
the changing of color in fashion, is usually of evolution, and i think the 3 colors may not be able to represent all trendy colors of that period, or may be there are several periods in a big time period.
however, i think it is a good chance for me to learn more about color in the fashion history.